1. Tomato seed germination using potato juice. To prepare the potato juice, take a few tubers and freeze them in the freezer for 3 to 5 days. Once removed, allow them to thaw naturally before extracting the juice. Soak the tomato seeds in this juice for 12 hours. Then, cover the seeds with a thick, lint-free cloth, spread them out loosely, ensuring they don't touch each other. Cover with a breathable plastic film to keep them moist but not soggy. Place the setup in a warm area. After germination, transplant the seeds into the soil for nursery. According to experiments, this method can help tomatoes mature 15 to 20 days earlier compared to traditional methods.
2. Planting tomato seedlings horizontally. This technique is faster than conventional planting, reducing the seedling stage by 3 to 5 days and increasing survival rates by 15% to 20%. It also leads to an earlier harvest, typically 7 to 10 days sooner, and boosts yield by 20% to 30%. The process involves preparing fine soil and applying base fertilizer, then laying down black plastic mulch in a north-south direction. Dig furrows about 7 cm deep, spaced according to plant requirements, and create small holes 5 cm deep. Remove one-third of the leaves and buds from the base of the seedling, then place the plant so that its roots face south and the top faces north. Cover the roots with soil up to the leaf level, then apply mulch. In greenhouses, trimming lower branches can encourage stronger root development. When planting horizontally, ensure taller plants are planted separately from shorter ones, and choose seedlings weighing at least 8 grams with a stem height of around 10 cm, slightly angled for better growth.
3. Spraying cow urine on tomato leaves. Fresh cow urine should be sprayed onto both sides of the leaves during midday when the stomata are open. This can be done throughout the growing season and has been shown to increase production by 18% to 25% or more. However, it's important to use fresh cow urine on the same day it's collected. Avoid spraying during the fruiting period about 10 days before harvesting to prevent contamination of the fruit surface.
4. Using chicken and rabbit manure solution as a foliar spray. During the fruiting stage, spraying a 6% solution of chicken or rabbit manure extract on both sides of the leaves can speed up fruit maturation, improve quality, and increase yield. To prepare the solution, mix 3 kg of dried manure with 50 liters of water in a wooden barrel or large container. Seal it and let it ferment for 6 to 7 days. After fermentation, stir the mixture thoroughly and filter it. The resulting liquid can be used directly for spraying.
5. Bending lateral branches to the ground. After the main tomato crop is harvested, select 2 to 3 lateral branches from the base of the main stem, bend them to the ground, and secure them with loam. Leave only 2 to 3 leaves exposed at the top. Once all lateral branches are secured, water them once. Maintain greenhouse temperatures between 20-25°C during the day and 10-15°C at night, with soil moisture at 60%-70% and air humidity at 45%-55%. After the main stem declines, cut it off near the lateral branches and provide proper nutrients and water. Within 115 to 200 days, the lateral branches will begin to flower and bear fruit.
6. Retaining the main stem after pruning. After selecting high-quality varieties, cultivating strong seedlings, and planting at optimal spacing, leave the main stem intact after fruiting and remove the old branches. This allows the main stem to regrow, producing more fruit and extending the plant’s productive life. This method not only saves seeds but also doubles the yield and advances fruiting by 15 to 20 days. For open-field tomatoes, ensure proper insulation and dry conditions, and consider using earthworms to help the plants survive the winter safely.
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