1. The best time to take cuttings is during spring and summer. Choose healthy stem segments that are approximately 15 cm long. After cutting, allow the wounds to dry for a day or two before planting them in a sand bed. Within 15 to 30 days, roots should begin to form, reaching a length of about 3 to 4 cm. At this point, the seedlings can be transplanted into a nursery bed for further growth.
2. For grafting, select disease-free, vigorous plants with thick stems as rootstocks—ideally a wild cactus species. Grafting should be done on sunny days. Cut the dragon fruit plant into 3–4 cm sections using a clean knife. Allow the cut surfaces to air dry. Then, make a horizontal cut 10 cm above the base of the rootstock, creating a flat surface. Insert the scion, align it carefully, and secure it with a cotton thread. Place the grafted plant in a warm room maintained at 28–30°C. After 4–5 days, if a large amount of callus forms and the scion color becomes similar to the rootstock, it indicates successful grafting. At this stage, the plant can be moved to a temporary bed for continued cultivation.
3. When preparing the nursery bed, choose a well-ventilated, sunny area with fertile, well-drained soil. Dig trenches 90 cm wide and level the ground. Mix 1500–2000 kg of well-decomposed chicken or cow manure with 1000 kg of rice husk, thoroughly combine them, and spread them evenly in the topsoil up to 10–30 cm deep. Then add 100–150 kg of calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, mix it with compost, and apply it to the top 4–5 cm of soil. Plant the seedlings 3 cm apart, water them, and spray a 500-fold dilution of carbendazim once. On sunny days, water when the topsoil dries out (every 7–10 days). Every 5–7 days, apply 5–7 kg of compound fertilizer per square meter to promote strong stem growth. As this variety is still relatively new in China, there is room for improvement in cultivation techniques. It’s recommended to experiment and refine methods for better results.
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